A European engineered real wood Multiply board offering a great selection of lengths and widths. Perfect for creating a contemporary space but still with the warmth of real Oak.
This Multiply Oak board has a micro bevelled edge on all 4 sides and are joined with tongue & groove. The reverse side has been stress grooved to help assist minimal movement when the boards are laid. Each coating of UV Oil is cured under UV light. creating a slight satin sheen and a tougher surface finish. This product will not need any oiling on installation. The Rustic Grade allows for larger sound knots, colour variation, filled cracks and some dark streaks. It is vital that the flooring is allowed to acclimatise before laying; a minimum of 72 hours is recommended.
Surface/Finish: UV Oiled
Width(mm): 140, 160, 180, 200, 220, 240
Thickness(mm): 20 (6)
Lengths in pack: 2x2200mm, 1x1500mm, 2x1100mm, 1x700mm
Grade: Rustic B
Edge: 4 side bevel
Underfloor Heating: Yes
This is an FSC Certified product.
What is engineered timber flooring
Engineered timber flooring is made of 100% timber. It is constructed with various layers of wood. What you see once the boards are laid is called the “wear layer” and the wear layer on our products varies from 2.5mm – 6mm. The thicker the wear layer the more hardwearing the product. A product with a 6mm wear layer can actually be sanded back once and refinished as you would with solid wood.
Underneath the wear layer are layers of birch wood ply. They are over laid in different directions. This means that when each layer is exposed to moisture and it wants to swell that the different layers fight against each other and minimise swelling and movement that can occur in solid wood flooring.
Our engineered flooring comes in a variety of different finishes and colours varying from rich browns to cool and contemporary greys with many warm tones inbetween.
Can I have varying board widths and lengths?
The answer is yes to this one. Our Engineered Oak under £50.00, the Wessex Range, come not only with varying lengths but the Rustic Unfinished and the Rustic Oiled also come with a choice of widths. No matter what width you decide to go with, each pack will have varying lengths from 700mm – 2200mm. The different widths available in these 2 products are: 140mm, 160mm, 180mm, 200mm, 220mm & 240mm. You can choose just one width or you could choose a couple of widths. Something to bear in mind if you decide to use different widths together is that colour, tone and finish can vary between different widths as they may have been produced from different sources.
Our Engineered Oak under £40.00 come at 180mm widths and for the most part 2200mm lengths and the under £25.00 range come with 207mm widths and 2200mm lengths.
What do I do about skirting?
We have a couple of suggestions for you:
If you are using an unfinished product and staining it yourself then you could choose to use an oak skirting and then stain floor and skirting together.
If you are using a pre-finished product then it may be safer to opt for a painted, white skirting in case you cannot match the staining to your satisfaction.
How do store my flooring before installation?
We suggest that you store Engineered Wood Flooring flat on the ground to eliminate stress and keep the packaging sealed. The storage room should be about 18 degrees Celsius and have a relative humidity of 45 – 60%.
Prior to installation, the material should acclimatize in the room you are laying it for at least 72 hours. Leave it in the packaging and flat as described above.
Before you move the product into the room ensure that:
- Painting and wallpapering are completed.
- Plaster is dry.
- Floor and wall tiles have been installed for at least 3 weeks.
- Windows are in place
- Radiators have been bled.
- No re-humidification takes place in the room where the floor will be installed.
- If there is under floor heating in the room then ensure it has been turned on for at least 3 weeks and the room is at its natural temperate during the acclimatization period.
Can I use underfloor heating with my engineered timber flooring?
Another yes to this one, but there are a few things to take into consideration:
- We suggest using the services of a professional wood flooring fitter and that he follows carefully the under floor heating instructions.
- The sub-floor does not exceed a moisture content of 1.5% (cement) or 0.3% (anhydrites).
- The heating has been on for at least 3 weeks before laying.
- The sub-floor temperature does not exceed 27 degrees Celsius (most water underfloor heating and some electric does not exceed this temperature. Please check the manufacturers instructions).
- The heating has been switched off for at least 48 hours before laying.
- Eight days after laying the floor, the heating is switched on and temperature gradually increased (increasing 2-3 degrees every 24 hours).
- The planks are glued down directly onto the sub-floor. Additionally, the tongue and grooves should also be glued together.
Some helpful hints for installation.
Inspection of materials
Before you start fitting please inspect the boards in daylight for any surface damage and other defects; it is also important to check whether the technical condition of the sub-floor and the room meets requirements.
In the case on of any reservations concerning the quality of material or sub-floor please stop work and call us. Once fitted the manufacturers guarantee is no longer valid.
- Ensure the sub-floor is dry, clean, firm & level.
- In square rooms lay the floor in the direction of incoming light. In rectangle rooms lay it length-wise.
- Avoid boards less than 60mm wide at the edges of your room (width not length) – measure width of room and divide by board widths, this will allow you to calculate what your last board width should be. If less than 60mm adjust the width of your first board laid to allow for a larger last board (avoid adjusting to under 60mm).
- Start fitting in the corner and lay from left to right.
- Start fitting with grooves towards the wall.
- Allow for expansion gaps every 10 metres and a 10mm gap around the perimeter of the room – this allows for natural shift as the seasons change.
- Lay rooms individually with expansion joints on thresholds.
All of the following must be stable and level:
- Elastic floor coverings
- Wooden floorings – if laying directly onto floor boards, run engineered flooring at 90 degrees to floor boards or over lay floor boards with 6mm ply board.
- Ceramic floorings
- Cement screeds – allow 2 weeks drying time for every cm thickness of cement – do not exceed moisture content of 1.5%.
- Anhydrites screeds – do not exceed moisture content of 0.3%.
- Soft sub floors such as fitted carpets must be removed.
Before laying the flooring on cement or anhydrite sub-floors it is necessary to make a damp-proof course using either a membrane or liquid primer.
Full adhesion method (our preferred method)
- We suggest using the services of a professional wood flooring fitter and that he follows carefully the manufacturers instructions for any primers and glues used.
- Ensure sufficient ventilation in the room and wear rubber protective gloves.
- Water-proof and/or Prime sub-floor and allow to dry for 24 hrs
- Glue should be applied and buttered on the sub-floor using a toothed spreader, gradually, in line with the floor laying progress. Lay the boards pressing them tightly to the sub-floor with the glue applied.
- Ensure the glue does not overflow to the boards’ surface.
- It is advisable to load the laid floor for 12 hours following installation. The laid flooring can be stepped on after 12 hours.
- The glue must cover at least 60-70% of board surface.
- Glue tongue and groove joints but click systems do not require it.
Floating Floor method
- We suggest using the services of a professional wood flooring fitter and that he follows carefully the manufacturers instructions for any primers used.
- Water-proof and/or Prime sub-floor and allow to dry for 24 hrs.
- Lay any underlays as required.
- For floor surfaces of over 100m² or side lengths of over 10 metres as well as passages between rooms must be separated with expansion joints/gaps.
- Start in the left had corner of the room and use an appropriately large wedge between the front edge of the board and the wall. Complete first row allowing sufficient expansion gap against the wall and wedge to hold in place. The last row should be completed in the same way and the end of all other rows.
- Start the next row using the off cut from the previous unless it is less than 40mm long. In this case start a new board. Slightly damaged board can be used in this circumstance by cutting the damage off and starting your row with it.
- Skirting boards should not be pressed to the floor tightly.
- It is necessary to leave at least 10-15mm distance from all fixed objects and walls.